Beauty basics: step by step smoky eyes

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Bold and smoky eye make-up will give your face instant drama and bring out your sexy side.
More than beauty
In ancient Egypt, a kohl-rimmed eye symbolised divinity. However, some say it was also used to protect the eye against ailments, and the blinding glare of the sun.

If you are in the habit of wearing the same make-up look for day and night, it’s time to master one of the key evening looks of the season. Autumn calls for boldness and glamour, and evening is the perfect time to dive in headfirst. Dust your eyes with smouldering shades of charcoal, ink or navy, and the effect can be truly powerful. We have received many emails from readers asking for guidance on this seemingly tricky trend, so we asked make-up artist, Claire Thompson, to shed a bit of light on the subject. With her easy-to-follow steps, anyone can unleash their inner seductress.
Basic beginnings
Bold eye make-up always looks best on an even complexion. Apply your foundation and concealer as you usually would for a night time look – but leave the under-eye area bare. Little flecks of dark eyeshadow can fall from your brush as you sweep it across your eyelids. If this happens and you remove the smudge with a cleanser, you will also take away any under-eye concealer, so leave applying it until last.
“It’s especially important to have defined and groomed brows with a dramatic eye, because it’s the focus of your face,” says Claire. Pluck any rogue hairs ahead of time as heavy layers of eyeshadow will grab onto strays below your brow and make them more noticeable. Fill any sparse areas with a waxy brow pencil, such as Clarins Retractable Brow Definer, $36, then give your brows volume and depth with Laura Mercier Brow Definer, $40, a tinted gel that thickens and sets eyebrows in place. It is best applied with an angled synthetic brush, so the wax will glide off, rather than clump and accumulate as it would with natural bristles. Sweep a nude-coloured eyeshadow across the entire lid to provide a base to block natural oils, as dewiness will make your eyeshadow slide. The colour should be invisible on your eyelid – so you can’t see a colour difference at the outer edges.
Middle ground
Sweep a middle-tone eyeshadow across the entire eyelid - from the lash line up to the crease of the lid, and from inner corner to outer edge. Claire used a round-bristled brush and a cool, steely shade of grey. Try Giorgio Armani Beauty Eye Shadow in shade 44, $42. Other seasonal shades include lavender, violet, dark blue and taupe. Bobbi Brown has encased many of the season’s best in the Stonewashed Nudes Palette, $99, a range of pebble-like colours that flatter most skin tones. It comes with a double-ended brush, which is brilliant for creating a smoky eye. One side has wide, rounded bristles for shading large areas; the other has short, densely compacted bristles for precise eyeliner application. Clinique Colour Surge Eye Shadow Trio in Black Truffle, $50, also has a great colour combination and a mini brush.
If your eyes are set close together, keep the colour mostly on the outside, leaving the inner corners light. If your eyes are set wide apart, you can bring the colour closer towards your nose. However, Claire suggests sticking to a ‘butterfly effect’- a winged look that is heavier on the outside. “Today’s supermodels are wide-eyed and doll-like. You can emulate their look with this kind of strategic eyeshadow application,” she says.
Deeper and darker
Create definition by using a pencil-shaped brush with a soft, pointy tip to apply colour to the outer corner of the eye and along the lash line. Sweep across the lower lid, too, keeping as close to the lashes as you can. Use a soft pencil to rim the eyelids from inner corner to outer edge. Make the line thicker as you get closer to the outer corner. We love super-soft pencils as they blend easily and create the best smoky effect. Our favourites are Inika Mineral Eye Liner in Black, $22.95, and Harlotte Smudge Eye Pencil, $24 (www.harlotte.com.au). Claire advises you go back over the top lid with black liquid eyeliner for maximum intensity. To achieve an even line, place the pen in your hand and rest your elbow on a table. The swing of your arm will operate like a compass. If you slip up, don’t cleanse the lot, simply apply a second layer of your darkest eyeshadow or kohl pencil, and blend it into the eyelid.
On the edge
On the lower lid, try not to apply a line of colour too thickly below the lash line. As the night wears on, your skin will perspire and the colour will slide downwards. To avoid this, prime the lower lash line with a product such as Benefit Cosmetics F.Y...eye! primer, $38, before you begin. But it’s a good idea to not overdo it in the first place. To make the whites of your eye really stand out, pull the lower lid down gently, and run the black pencil across the inner rim, wiggling the pencil in between the lashes to create an intense, solid line. Some make-up artists like to rim the inside of the upper lid. Although this looks very effective, it can be a bit tricky and may irritate your eyes. Try using a hypoallergenic, opthamologist-tested kohl, such as Almay Blendable Eye Pencil, $16.95, or Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer, $29.95, to limit the
likelihood of allergic reactions or irritation
Fluttery lashes
Start with naked lashes and use a curler from base to tip. We like Utowa Eye Lash Curler, $45, from Mecca Cosmetica, or for a less pricey alternative, try Manicare Eyelash Curler, $9.99. Waterproof mascara stays in place better than non-waterproof versions – which is important if you’re anticipating a late night, as eyeshadow can start to shift. We like Max Factor 2000 Calorie Aqualash Mascara in Rich Black, $20.85 – it doesn’t flake and is quick and easy to remove when you just want to dive into bed. “It’s important to wear a true black on your lashes. For a smoky eye, you have to go to extremes. Sooty lashes will really magnify the drama,” says Claire. Work the top lashes first. Hold the wand horizontally, and wriggle the wand in between the roots of the lashes, then drag outwards and upwards. Each lash should take on a conical shape - thickest at the bottom, tapering out to a fine point. Hold the wand vertically when applying mascara to the lower lashes. “Wipe the tip before you begin,” says Claire, “so you don’t struggle with an inky overload.” If you’re feeling adventurous (and applied a cool-toned eyeshadow), tip your lashes with a shade of navy or purple. Try YSL Mascara Volume Infini Curl in Number 6, $51, a brilliant peacock blue that gives your lashes a unique point of difference.

Practice makes perfect: Smoky eyes can be created and worn by anyone. All you need is three compatible shades of eyeshadow (in light, medium and dark), a few tools and a modicum of courage. We recommend you experiment a few times before your evening out, so you’ll feel completely confident with application on the big night.

Words: Erin Whitty. Photography: Corrie Bond.