Natural cosmetics

The line between make-up and skincare has blurred. Jenna Moore looks at the latest cosmetics using natural ingredients to enhance the look of your skin and treat it, too.

As women of the 21st century we’re discerning, savvy and, it has to be said, demanding. When it comes to make-up we’re looking for products that not only disguise our imperfections and enhance our features, but deliver protection from environmental aggressors, are natural, nourishing, hydrating, long-lasting and safe. In other words, we want miracle workers! While this sounds like a pretty tall order, the skilful players in ‘beauty land’ are delivering the goods.

“The market is hungry for natural and effective products to help treat and relieve skin conditions and for consumers who prefer to use chemical-free products on their skin,” says Natalia Michalun, author of Milady’s Skin Care & Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary (Milady’s Publishing, 2001).

One such product to emerge, mineral make-up, is leading the revolution. It looks wonderful, feels fabulous and its basic ingredients such as mica, zinc oxide and titanium oxide are derived from the earth.

As a film and television producer, Jane Iredale frequently saw actresses experience adverse reactions to make-up. This inspired her to formulate a line of mineral-based make-up products, Iredale Mineral Cosmetics, designed to be skin-friendly as well as beautifying. “Mineral make-up allows skin to breathe and function normally,” says Jane. “It also provides very effective UVA and UVB sunscreen protection. It does this without using chemicals that have to be absorbed into the skin and it doesn’t contain any of the top sensitisers such as synthetic preservatives (parabens), dyes and synthetic fragrance. It’s non-comedogenic so it won’t block pores, contains beneficial antioxidants and provides a barrier against environmental pollutants.”

Another major player in the ‘make-up-that’s-good-for-you’ stakes is i.d. Bare Escentuals mineral make-up, which boasts that it is ‘make-up so pure you can sleep in it’. “It helps cover flaws and pigmentation and protects the epidermis from the harmful rays of the sun,” says Natalia. “The formulation contains zinc oxide, which as well as being a natural SPF, is soothing and can help heal acne, pimples and rosacea. Titanium dioxide, also a natural SPF, is also included in the formulation – combined they offer an SPF of 15 to 20.”

 “Once you get it into your head that make-up can actually benefit the skin, you start thinking of all the things that you can add,” says Jane. “In the beginning, we used minerals and iron oxides for colour in our range. Since then, we’ve gone on to add antioxidants and other active ingredients into our make-up.”

The kinds of minerals used in make-up today are much more benign than those favoured by the ancient Romans, but it may come as a surprise to many make-up consumers that the average eyeshadow not only contains coloured pigments (similar to the kinds of pigments used to create paint) but also minerals such as mica, zinc oxide, gold and silver.

The way mineral make-up brands such as Iredale Mineral Cosmetics and i.d. Bare Escentuals formulate pigment is highly sophisticated and very safe. They use milling techniques that create ultra-fine powders that deliver a sheer veil of colour on to the skin. In fact, the powders are so light you’re probably using a great deal less product than you would with a conventional eyeshadow.

Other natural ingredients that treat the skin are becoming commonplace in many make-up lines. Antioxidants such as vitamins A, C and E, co-enzyme Q10, green tea extract, jojoba, macadamia and avocado oils, ginseng, shea butter, manuka honey and a host of other beneficial components are joining forces to create beautifiers that are much more than cosmetics.

 

Photography: Steven Chee. Hair & make-up: Chris Coonrod for Dermalogica. Styling: Nadene Duncan.