How to choose and care for makeup brushes

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When it comes to applying make-up, the right tools are crucial for achieving good results. As Nikki Goldstein reports, adding a few basic brushes to your make-up kit will give you a polished, professional look.

I’ll admit it. When it comes to make-up tools, I’m a bit lazy. I’ve always been content to use the teeny-weeny brush that comes with a blush or apply my lipstick straight from the tube. But after years of working with professional hair and make-up artists, and witnessing first-hand the flawless work they produce with tools such as brushes and eyelash curlers, I’m ever so slowly becoming a convert.

The moment of revelation came when I was invited to experience a makeover with Lancôme national make-up artist Michael Brown recently. I’m often quite squeamish about makeovers because, like most women, I have a beauty routine that I’ve followed for years and I’m rather attached to the way I do it and the results I get. And the one aspect of my make-up I’m determined not to change is my foundation. I’ve been using the same compact powder formulation for a long time, and I love what it does for my skin – it evens out the pigment and discolourations, and gives me a natural, matt finish that doesn’t look too powdery.

Michael began by insisting I try a liquid foundation, which he applied with a brush. I was dubious about how it would turn out, but surrendered without too much fuss and closed my eyes as his nimble hands worked the base into my skin with feather-light strokes. The feeling of the brush whisking over my face was infinitely more pleasurable than my usual swipe with a sponge, and when I surveyed my visage in the mirror I was surprised how sheer, air brushed and even my skin looked.

“The Teint Idole Ultra foundation is a great product,” Michael said. “It’s smooth, easy to apply and lasts for hours. But the real secret of this makeover is the brush.” Applying a liquid foundation with a brush, rather than a sponge or your fingertips, allows you to get right into the tiny crevices around the nose and eyes, and blend the pigment seamlessly into the skin. I noticed that the foundation appeared to melt into my skin rather than sit on the surface.

Next, Michael applied blush with a proper blush brush, which can collect a lot of pigment. It deposited the colour in one deft stroke instead of lots of small ones, which can leave the cheeks looking uneven and slightly streaked.

I usually pencil kohl around my eyes to make them appear more open and dramatic. Michael dipped a tapered eye-shadow brush into a pot of eye shadow and rimmed my eyes in a pretty navy blue. While I still prefer the denser, more opaque effect I can achieve with kohl, it was interesting to see the difference between pencil and expertly applied eye shadow. Michael also used a brush and shadow to colour and shape my eyebrows, which I must admit looked softer and more natural than my usual work with a pencil.

Finally, Michael attended to my lips. First he used a lip pencil to colour the entire surface of my mouth. Next, he picked up a lip brush and, instead of applying lipstick, used the bristles to work the pencil pigment into the lines on my lips. “A pencil gives the mouth definition and provides a good waxy base for applying lipgloss,” he explains. “The brush smoothes out the pigment for an even application.” After the lipgloss was slicked on to my lips, Michael used a clean brush to paint the gloss right to the edges of my mouth.

“Those little applicators that come with the gloss are great when you’re on the run, but if you have the time it pays to use a brush as it will fill out the lips to perfection,” he says.

When I arrived home that night, my husband said, “You look pretty” – something a wife of 13 years loves to hear. Nevertheless, there are some things about my make-up routine I’ll probably never change – I’m still devoted to my compact foundation and my kohl. However, a few lush brushes have been slotted into my make-up case, and I now relish the sensuousness of swirling a proper blush brush over my cheeks and etching soft pigment into my eyebrows with a neat, new brush.

How to clean brushes

Swirl the brush over a bar of mild soap until you see the pigment melting on to the soap. Run some water into the palm of your hand and lather the brush in your palm – the pigment will run into your hand, then into the basin. Rinse well. Using a tissue, gently reshape the head of the brush, then set aside on a clean towel or tissue for at least 12 hours to dry. Don’t leave brushes to soak in water as this will cause wooden handles to warp and metal fittings to rust.

The essentials
Many women are daunted by the thought of buying separate make-up tools – they often feel it’s an unnecessary expense and are uncertain how to use them properly. However, most hair and make-up artists say that a set of good brushes is essential if you want a polished look. Brushes make application easier and faster, and give you more control over the products. With good brushes, you can also achieve a more natural look and longer-lasting effects.

If you treat them well – washing them in soap and water once a month – good-quality brushes can last for years. Look for brushes with natural bristles – sable is the Rolls Royce of bristles, but is very expensive. Cheaper brushes with hog and horse-hair bristles are also available. Synthetic varieties are effective but probably don’t feel as luxurious on the skin. For a basic kit, choose a good powder brush, a blush brush, eye-shadow brush, brow brush and lip brush. A blender brush for contouring eye shadow and a concealer brush will also come in handy.

Words: Nikki Goldstein. Photography: Steven Chee. Hair & make-up: Laura Dominique. Styling: Claudia Renford.