The science of skin care

Erin Whitty rounds up the latest skin care products and explains what they can do for you.

Last year, the Australian skin care retail industry was worth a whopping $453 million. The fastest growing category, and one the most competitive, is anti-ageing –companies are producing anti-wrinkle creams at an extraordinary rate. According to Global Cosmetic Industry magazine, consumers are calling for “multi-purpose preparations” that nourish the skin and significantly reduce the appearance of ageing at the same time. Here’s our take on the current batch of new products…
 
From the lab to you
Strivectin SD, $240, is one of the most hyped products on the market. The cult stretch mark cream was championed in the media when its patented peptide solution was discovered to work just as effectively on the face – and sales went through the roof as a result.  The cream works well as a moisturiser and is comfortable to wear under make-up. However, the claim it fixes fine lines, crow’s-feet and wrinkles “better than Botox” seems to be pushing it a little too far.

Natural know-how
A recent survey conducted by Avon found that customers want a product that utilises the best of modern technology and features natural ingredients. Avon Anew Alternative Intensive Age Treatment, $59.99, combines these two requirements in the one solution. It contains lovage root and neem flower, herbs used in ancient Chinese therapies that are said to have anti-ageing effects. And with the addition of  “pharmaceutical-inspired” technology, it aims to help reverse the process called glycation, which contributes to wrinkle development.

Dr LeWinn’s Private Formula is another brand to combine science with natural elements. Ultra R4 Rejuvenation Serum, $69.95, uses ‘Peptide Power’ to work against collagen depletion at the cellular level to improve firmness and moisture levels. Natural extracts from plankton and golden root give the solution antioxidant advantages, which can help neutralise the obvious effects of UV rays.

Sisley is best known for its botanical approach to beauty – it applies natural plant extracts and essential oils to cosmetology. Daily Line Reducer, $490, is designed to gently reduce wrinkles for long-term natural effects. It aims re-energise the fibroblast cells located at the base of the wrinkle by reversing diminished collagen production within the cells and restoring the skin’s firmness.

Miracle massage
SK-II has explored how a particular application method can enhance the results of their skin care products. Its new luxurious line, LXP, is designed to be applied using a special massage technique called “Ohada Narai” which helps skin become more receptive to the effects of the treatments. The product range includes an Activating Massage Fluid, $150, Moist Softening Serum, $300, and Ultimate Revival Cream, $450. 

The bubble approach
Dr Joseph Lewis, developer of the Priori skin care range, says oxidization is one of the biggest factors affecting the skin’s surface. “Even if you sat in a cupboard for fifty years, the appearance of your skin would disintegrate,” says the renowned chemist. Priori’s key active ingredient – Idebenone -- claims to act as a shield from corrosion caused by oxidative stress. Building on the success of Priori’s original Smooth Lines and Even Tones, are four new products -- Facial Cleanser, $80, Moisturizing Facial Cream, $240, and Eye Serum, $150.

Dermatological developments
L’Oreal has turned to dermatology for inspiration and created its most innovative product to date, Wrinkle De-Crease Collagen Filler, $29.95. It claims to physically fill out wrinkles using collagen biospheres that are absorbed deep into the epidermis, pushing out any hollows that have developed from dehydration. The company says you can see instant improvement after the first application.

On the lighter side
There’s no mistaking it, a whitening trend has swept across Australia. Products once only targeted at darker-skinned women wanting to lighten their skin are now being offered to a much larger demographic. “More than 90 per cent of us over the age of eighteen are noticing the effects of sun damage, including age spots, freckles and hormonal related discolourations,” says a Clinique representative. To deal with the issue, the company has come up with Derma White Daily Care, a three-step routine with options for a range of skin types. Additional Intensive Treatments contain the newest technology, bio-fermented Blackout Yeast Extract. Derma White C-10 Anti-Aging Clarity Formula, $110, simultaneously addresses the fight against time.

Shiseido, Sisley, SK-II and Lancôme also have ranges devoted to the quest for clarity, brightness and whiteness. Shiseido’s White Lucent combines a Spot Deacti-Complex to target spots with vitamin C for brightening and Asian plant extracts for retexturising. And Sisley’s Phyto-Blanc again uses luxury botanical ingredients. SK-II’s new whitening range includes five products designed to reduce the signs of pigmentation due to sun damage and hormonal imbalances. SK-II Whitening Clearspots, $188, targets darker marks on the skin, such as age spots without harsh bleaches. And watch out for Lancôme’s Blanc Expert (in stores September 10), with Neuro-White technology that internally targets the nerve centre that produces melanin production, while at the same time protecting the skin from external melanin production.

Micro cosmetology
As our lives get busier, we have less time to invest in lengthy procedures. The trend towards home microdermabrasion has meant we can experience a beauty salon treatment at home and create an instant radiance boost in minutes. L’Oreal Paris ReFinish Micro-Dermabrasion Kit, $34.95, does this in two easy steps. First, the Resurfacing Exfoliator eliminates dead surface skin cells with tiny micro-crystals embedded in a soothing biosaccharide cream. The Post-Treatment Optimising Moisturiser, enriched with vitamin E and sunscreens, is then applied to nourish and protect skin from ageing factors.

Lancôme’s Resurface C-Microdermabration, $149, also provides the technology in two stages. Its Polishing Cream re-texturises the skin with a double exfoliation process combined with emollients to prevent irritation. The booster serum contains pure vitamin C to revitalise and reactivate skin radiance.

Avon Anew Clinical Micro-Exfoliant, $39.99, is a creamy treatment that contains a microbead exfoliant, as used in professional microdermabrasion. It’s designed to instantly remove dead surface skin, smooth, re-texturise and improve skin clarity. It also claims to improve the appearance of age spots and sun damaged skin after regular use.

Chanel Precision Micro Solutions approaches the resurfacing and anti-wrinkle technology with a precise plan. Micro Solutions Refining Peel Programme, $270, contains pure glycolic acid, which is released slowly to eliminate risk of irritation. You need to use one entire tube of the serum-like substance at a time (the kit comes with 21) and work outwards from the centre of the face to the neck. Micro Solutions Wrinkle-Neutralizing Treatment, $270, is an innovative applicator pen designed to “roll out” wrinkles. It emits an elastic gel and is designed to relax the muscles surrounding the wrinkle while you sleep. Finally, the Micro Solutions Wrinkle-Filler Programme, $270, stimulates the production of natural collagen around the nasolabial folds (smile lines around the mouth), in an effort to fill out the wrinkle.

Stockists:
Avon: 1800 646 000
Clinique: 1800 061 326
Chanel: 02 9900 2944
Dr. LeWinns: 1800 033 122
Lancome: 02 031 8888
L’Oreal: 1300 659 259
Priori: 1800 808 993
Sisley:  1300 780 800
Shiseido: 1800 225 032
SK-II: 1800 012 169
Strivectin SD at Myer: 1800 811 611