If your eyes are set close together, keep the colour mostly on the outside, leaving the inner corners light. If your eyes are set wide apart, you can bring the colour closer towards your nose. However, Claire suggests sticking to a ‘butterfly effect’- a winged look that is heavier on the outside. “Today’s supermodels are wide-eyed and doll-like. You can emulate their look with this kind of strategic eyeshadow application,” she says.
Deeper and darker
Create definition by using a pencil-shaped brush with a soft, pointy tip to apply colour to the outer corner of the eye and along the lash line. Sweep across the lower lid, too, keeping as close to the lashes as you can. Use a soft pencil to rim the eyelids from inner corner to outer edge. Make the line thicker as you get closer to the outer corner. We love super-soft pencils as they blend easily and create the best smoky effect. Our favourites are Inika Mineral Eye Liner in Black, $22.95, and Harlotte Smudge Eye Pencil, $24 (www.harlotte.com.au). Claire advises you go back over the top lid with black liquid eyeliner for maximum intensity. To achieve an even line, place the pen in your hand and rest your elbow on a table. The swing of your arm will operate like a compass. If you slip up, don’t cleanse the lot, simply apply a second layer of your darkest eyeshadow or kohl pencil, and blend it into the eyelid.
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On the edge
On the lower lid, try not to apply a line of colour too thickly below the lash line. As the night wears on, your skin will perspire and the colour will slide downwards. To avoid this, prime the lower lash line with a product such as Benefit Cosmetics F.Y...eye! primer, $38, before you begin. But it’s a good idea to not overdo it in the first place. To make the whites of your eye really stand out, pull the lower lid down gently, and run the black pencil across the inner rim, wiggling the pencil in between the lashes to create an intense, solid line. Some make-up artists like to rim the inside of the upper lid. Although this looks very effective, it can be a bit tricky and may irritate your eyes. Try using a hypoallergenic, opthamologist-tested kohl, such as Almay Blendable Eye Pencil, $16.95, or Aveda Petal Essence Eye Definer, $29.95, to limit the
likelihood of allergic reactions or irritation
Fluttery lashes
Start with naked lashes and use a curler from base to tip. We like Utowa Eye Lash Curler, $45, from Mecca Cosmetica, or for a less pricey alternative, try Manicare Eyelash Curler, $9.99. Waterproof mascara stays in place better than non-waterproof versions – which is important if you’re anticipating a late night, as eyeshadow can start to shift. We like Max Factor 2000 Calorie Aqualash Mascara in Rich Black, $20.85 – it doesn’t flake and is quick and easy to remove when you just want to dive into bed. “It’s important to wear a true black on your lashes. For a smoky eye, you have to go to extremes. Sooty lashes will really magnify the drama,” says Claire. Work the top lashes first. Hold the wand horizontally, and wriggle the wand in between the roots of the lashes, then drag outwards and upwards. Each lash should take on a conical shape - thickest at the bottom, tapering out to a fine point. Hold the wand vertically when applying mascara to the lower lashes. “Wipe the tip before you begin,” says Claire, “so you don’t struggle with an inky overload.” If you’re feeling adventurous (and applied a cool-toned eyeshadow), tip your lashes with a shade of navy or purple. Try YSL Mascara Volume Infini Curl in Number 6, $51, a brilliant peacock blue that gives your lashes a unique point of difference.
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Flossi, at 11:36am Sat 22nd March, 2008 |
| Good article but maybe some step by step photos would have been better. |
Simone, at 8:20am Sun 23rd March, 2008 |
I have been trying to create this look for sometime, it is great to finally
have some instruction on how the professionals do it. Thank you |
caroline311, at 6:13pm Tue 25th March, 2008 |
| very good explanation, but a few illustrations would also help if it is your first experiment using "smoky" colours. |
RetroGal, at 10:05am Wed 16th April, 2008 |
| Good article but a word about more matue eyes and the hazards of darker colours emphasizing under eye creases should be part of any beauty tip or article - not everyone is 'dewy'! |
barbclark, at 6:16pm Thu 17th April, 2008 |
| Fantastic information, thanksyou, Barb |
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