Ingredient Guide: Asparagus

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These succulent spears herald the arrival of warmer weather. Divine as a side dish on their own, they’re also delicious with all kinds of meals and ingredients. This member of the lily family is thought to have originated in the Eastern Mediterranean and Asia Minor, where it still grows wild. Before its consumption as a food, asparagus was considered a cure-all, claimed to heal everything from heart trouble to toothache. The Greeks harvested it wild, but the Romans started cultivation as early as 200BC, eating it in both fresh and dried forms. The Roman emperor Augustus was reportedly particularly fond of it and is credited with coining the saying “quicker than you can cook asparagus”.

Seasons and regions
Asparagus is synonymous with spring – in the northern hemisphere, its arrival is celebrated throughout Europe with various food festivals. Locally, an asparagus festival is held in October at Cardinia Ranges Farmers’ Market, in Victoria – Australia’s principle asparagus-growing region. Smaller quantities of asparagus are also grown in Queensland and Western Australia.

Colour and growing
White, green and purple asparagus are the same species; the difference is in the way white asparagus is grown. White asparagus is traditionally grown in mounds of mulch, to deprive the plant shoots of light and thus prevent the formation of the green pigment chlorophyll. In Australia, however, white asparagus is grown in black plastic-covered ‘igloos’ – a more modern and less labour-intensive method. Purple asparagus contains 20 per cent more sugars than green asparagus, so tastes sweeter. It also contains the red pigment anthocyanin, which fades with cooking. To preserve the colour of purple asparagus, add an acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, to your cooking water. Asparagus plants typically take four years to mature and each stalk is hand-harvested; this labour-intensity is reflected in the vegetable’s price, which is reduced at the season’s height.

Storage
Asparagus is highly perishable so is best used as soon after purchasing as possible. Fresh spears should have smooth, blemish-free stalks. Asparagus that is old and has been stored for too long will typically have damp heads and dry stalks. Store asparagus in an airtight bag in the crisper section of the fridge for 2-3 days.

Cooking tips

• The woody ends of all asparagus need to be trimmed; gently bend the bottom half of each stalk – they will break at their tender points.
• Green and purple asparagus don’t need to be peeled, and are interchangeable in cooking. Try them boiled, steamed, stir-fried, barbecued or char-grilled.
• To barbecue, thread multiple spears between two soaked skewers; this ensures that they won’t slip through the grill, and speeds up turning.
• Green and purple asparagus are cooked to perfection when they retain the slightest bit of resistance; they should never be crunchy.
• White asparagus is best steamed or boiled and should be peeled before cooking. It takes longer to cook than green asparagus; it should be cooked until completely tender
• The sweet, buttery taste of white asparagus is best enjoyed with seafood, rice, potatoes, cream, cheeses, eggs, preserved meats and delicately flavoured herbs.
• Green and purple asparagus work with the same flavours as white but are also good with the more intense tastes of sesame oil, mushrooms, soy sauce, mustard and stronger cheeses.

Words, recipes & styling: Sophia Young. Photography: Andrew Lehmann. Food preparation: Lisa Featherby.