Ingredient guide: Zucchini and squash

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Early autumn brings an abundance of zucchini and squash. Sophia Young shows you how to transform these fast-cooking vegetables into a delicious array of recipes.

Zucchini and patty pan squash form part of the cucurbita (squash or edible gourd) genus. This family can be loosely divided into two groups – winter and summer squash. Winter types include pumpkins, and typically have hard seeds and skins. Summer squash, such as zucchini and patty pan squash, are picked immature, and are characterised by their soft, edible seeds and skin. Conquistadores brought squash to Spain, where they were first called calabaza (‘gourd’ in Arabic). The French named them courge d’Italie, which was later shortened to simply ‘courgette’.

Cooking
Most cooking methods can be applied to zucchini and patty pan squash – char-grilling,
frying, roasting, braising and sautéing. Boiling is the exception, as this tends to water-log them. Instead, try steaming them then tossing with finely chopped shallots cooked in a little butter or olive oil, and herbs, such as basil, mint, marjoram or oregano. Brushed with olive oil, either cut into thin slices or halved, they are delicious barbecued. Patty pan squash can also be skewered with other vegetables and meat then barbecued.

Buying & storing
For the best flavour, choose small to medium sized zucchini and squash – they should be firm and wrinkle-free. The different coloured zucchini may all be used interchangeably and look attractive together. Lebanese zucchini are considered to be more delicately flavoured than green and yellow types, with a sweet, slightly nutty flavour.

Zucchini are prone to damp spots if stored for too long. Store in the fridge, either in a snap-lock bag or loose in the vegetable crisper, for 2-3 days. The flowers are highly perishable and should ideally be consumed on the day of buying. If storing overnight, place in an airtight container between damp sheets of paper towel. Both female and male flowers can be stuffed and fried (see recipe, page 104 of the March issue of Notebook:).). The attached fruit of the female flower makes a handy handle for eating or dipping. The flowers may also be sautéed (see recipe, page 113 of the March issue of Notebook:).

Tips

• Degorging is a method of salting vegetables with a high water content, to draw out excess moisture. For zucchini, it is useful in recipes with pastry and/or eggs, to prevent sogginess. 
• When buying zucchini flowers, avoid female flowers with very large fruit attached,
  as the flower is likely to be cooked before the attached zucchini. 
• Zucchini and patty pan squash are 95 per cent water, low in calories and relatively high in vitamin C. They also contain valuable antioxidants.
• For a quick and easy pasta dish, sauté coarsely grated zucchini in garlic and olive oil. Toss with your favourite just-cooked tubular pasta, spoonfuls of ricotta and the finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon.
• For a vegetarian take on our pastitso recipe (page 127 of the March issue of Notebook:), replace the meat in the meat sauce with 500g coarsely chopped zucchini and eggplant, then continue with recipe.

Zucchini flowers (female)
Female flowers are easily distinguished from their male counterparts by the attached fruit (baby zucchini). These can be left attached, or separated, depending on the cooking method. 

Yellow zucchini
These are a vivid egg-yolk yellow colour. They taste the same as green zucchini, but are more fragile and susceptible to skin damage, which shows up as brown spots and markings. 

Lebanese zucchini
Lebanese zucchini are also sold as continental, white, grey and even black zucchini. Regardless of the name used, they are easily spotted by their green/grey skin and slightly bulbous shape.

Patty pan squash
Also known as button squash, this variety is called scallopini by the Italians, in reference to its scalloped edges. Yellow is the most commonly seen variety, but other colours are available.

Green zucchini
The staple of the zucchini varieties. As with yellow and Lebanese types, they can be cut into rounds, on the diagonal, lengthways, halved (hollowed and stuffed), or cut into julienne.

Zucchini flowers (male)
Male flowers are generally larger than females, with only a stem attached and no fruit. The males are preferred by Italians, as the female flowers are usually grown for their fruit. 

Words, recipes & food preparation: Sophia Young   Photography: Andrew Lehmann   Styling: Amber Keller