Ingredient guide: Tomatoes

Now is the perfect time to enjoy flavoursome sun-ripened tomatoes. These kitchen staples are delicious in all kinds of summer dishes.

 

A short history...
Tomatoes originated in South America and were spread by the Spanish throughout their colonies. In Europe in the 1540s, the tomato became known as poma d’oro (‘gold apple’) in Italy and pomme d’amour (‘love apple’) in France. Initially, tomatoes were regarded with suspicion, considered poisonous and, even worse, an aphrodisiac. This mistrust was founded by their presence in the Solanaceae family, whose other members include the deadly nightshade plant, eggplant, capsicum and potatoes.

 

Fruit or vegetable?
Botanically, the tomato is a fruit and so was taxed as one in 19th-century America, much to the ire of growers. Finally, in 1893, a law was passed declaring it a vegetable. However, sweet recipes do exist for their use. Italian peasants were some of the first people to add tomatoes to their bland diets. Today, tomatoes are an integral part of many cuisines worldwide – Italy, Spain and the Middle East all have large repertoires of dishes which seem inseparable from the tomato. 

 

Buying and storing
In the past, most tomatoes were picked unripe and subjected to ethylene gas to start the ripening process. This aided transportation and storage times, at the cost of flavour. Tomatoes ripened on the vine tend to have more flavour, as they continue to ripen after picking. Buy from smaller greengrocers who select quality tomatoes. Choose plump, heavy, fragrant, blemish-free ones. Cold storage increases keeping times but can cause loss of flavour and texture. Ripen and store large tomatoes at room temperature. Tomatoes for cooking can be stored in the fridge. For smaller ripe tomatoes, store in the fridge and bring to room temperature before eating.

Pomodori fritti (polenta-coated fried tomatoes)
Serves 4

8 thin slices ciabatta or other Italian bread
1 cup (250ml) olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 eggs
1½ cups (250g) polenta
6 (180g each) medium vine-ripened tomatoes
½ bunch basil leaves
2 fior di latte*, torn into chunks
Balsamic vinegar, to serve

 

1. Preheat a char-grill pan over medium heat. Brush bread slices with a little oil, then cook for 1 minute each side, or until lightly charred. Rub hot bread all over with 1 garlic clove then season to taste with salt and pepper.
2. Crack eggs into a bowl. Crush remaining garlic and add to eggs. Lightly beat then season to taste. Place polenta in a second bowl. Line a large flat tray with paper towels. Cut a thin slice from top and bottom of each tomato and discard, then cut each tomato into 3 or 4 thick slices. 
3. Heat remaining oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan over medium heat until hot. Working in batches, pat 6 tomato slices dry with paper towels. Press a small basil leaf on to each then dip, one at a time, into egg, allowing excess to drip off. Place into polenta and spoon over to lightly coat. Using a spatula, gently lower 6 coated slices into hot oil and cook for 30 seconds. Using a spatula and spoon, gently turn slices and cook for a further 30 seconds, then drain on paper towel-lined tray. Season to taste with salt. 
4. Repeat with remaining tomatoes, basil, egg and polenta. Serve immediately with grilled bread, fior di latte, remaining basil leaves and balsamic vinegar for drizzling.

 

* Fior di latte means ‘flowers of milk’ and is the Italian name for large balls of fresh mozzarella, available from delicatessens.

Words, recipes & styling: Sophia Young   Photography: Andrew Lehmann