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A favourite pastime for centuries, women are rediscovering the leisurely ritual of afternoon tea. Selina Altomonte looks at the pleasures of sharing a cup or two in good company.

When I arrive at Sydney’s Victoria Room on a Sunday afternoon, the wind is howling and it is beating down with rain. The heavy wooden doors are still closed, so I take shelter in the doorway. One by one, women dolled up in heels and dresses take their place in the small alcove, and the group gets louder with animated chatter as friends, mothers and daughters arrive to embraces and kisses.

At one o’clock, the doors swing open and we file upstairs into the candle-lit space and settle into overstuffed leather couches and antique chairs. Surrounded by paintings depicting hunting scenes, art nouveau lamps and a giant globe in one corner, pots of exotic tea are brewed and three-tiered trays laden with neatly-cut sandwiches,... read on below advertisment



fluffy scones with jam and clotted cream, and miniature sweet treats are laid before us. The entire room is full of women, gathered with friends, to enjoy the ritual of afternoon tea.

“Tea has a wonderful quality that draws people together and, mysteriously, a shared cup of tea always seems to taste better than tea drunk alone,” says Lindel Barker-Revell, tea-leaf reader and author of Time for Tea: The Gentle Art of Reading Tea-Leaves (Allen & Unwin, 2007). For the crowd of people delighting in tea on this particular afternoon, including a bride-to-be throwing a ‘hen’s high tea’ and a few baffled men trying to negotiate their way around the delicate morsels on offer, this certainly rings true.

For publicist Stephanie Whitelock, 32, afternoon tea has become a regular indulgence. Every couple of months or so, she and a small group of girlfriends meet here for a leisurely chat and to soak up the atmosphere. “It’s a great alternative to enjoying a meal with friends or going for a quick coffee,” Stephanie says. As for the growing popularity of this pastime, Stephanie says, “I think plenty of women like it for the same reasons I do. I like the fact it is a celebration of food in an era where eating sweets is frowned upon; that it is a slow ritual in a world where the pace of life is fast. The venues that serve afternoon tea are usually quite sumptuous and 'Old English' as well – it's like being in a Jane Austen novel,” she adds.

Single origin

In recent years, afternoon tea and high tea have become interchangeable terms but traditionally, high tea was an early evening meal enjoyed by the working classes. Afternoon tea is a much more formal affair, and usually takes place in the late afternoon. As the story goes, it was created in the 19th century by one of Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting, Anna Maria Stanhope, the Duchess of Bedford. Feeling peckish in between lunch and dinner, she had her servants bring her a pot of tea and pastries. She began inviting friends to join her for this afternoon meal, and the practice became so popular it was adopted by London’s social set. The institution of afternoon tea was an opportunity to dress up in finery, revel in good company and engage in witty banter and salacious gossip.

A modern twist

Today’s women are discovering the leisurely pastime of afternoon tea with enthusiasm, and the recent addition of two specialised tea sessions in Sydney is taking this experience to a new level.

The Notebook: team was lucky enough to be invited to the recent launch of the High Tea Lounge at Sydney’s premier cocktail bar, The Loft, which promised ‘high tea with a difference’. With the glittering lights of Sydney Harbour as a backdrop, we joined a throng of eager guests and feasted on savoury and sweet treats, such as smoked salmon with salmon roe crepes and caramel kisses served on traditional three-tiered trays.

The main drawcard at the High Tea Lounge are the ‘Teapot Cocktails’ which include concoctions such as Sencha Quince Fizz, a blend of Lillet, fresh passionfruit and chilled Sencha Quince tea from T2. For those seeking a milder beverage, a tempting list of specialist teas is on offer, including Madagascan Vanilla, Blossom Burst and Gorgeous Geisha. This stylish take on afternoon tea drew a crowd of all ages, and successfully mixed touches of tradition with modern tastes; it’s certainly a glamorous way to spend the weekend.

A new standard

“Afternoon tea is back and taking its deserved place around the world,” declared tea master Tjok Gde Kerthyasa at the launch of the new afternoon tea experience at Sydney’s Observatory Hotel. Already a popular venue for afternoon tea, the grandeur of this pastime is being taken to new heights with the appointment of Tjok, who is keen to share his passion and expertise through regular tea appreciation classes, alongside Lindel Baker-Revell, who will be leading a team of resident tea-leaf readers to add a mystic element to tea-time.

A cornucopia of pastries and cakes await the excited guests, and everyone is quick to indulge. We are offered three delicious tea blends, developed by Tjok, in beautiful antique teapots that have been hand-picked for the new high tea sessions. Each brew is very distinct in taste and creates a different effect, from soothing to uplifting. The sandwiches, scones and teacakes, served by genial staff, look too good to eat and taste divine.

A divinity of another kind is taking place at each table – as the last drops of tea are sipped, Lindel and a team of tea-leaf readers make their way around the tables to introduce us to their craft. The art of tea-leaf reading, Lindel explains, was traditionally passed down by women from generation to generation, and provides an opportunity for storytelling and bonding. “It is an excellent tool for giving women more faith in their intuition,” Lindel says. “Anyone can do it; we just have to learn how.”

I was lucky enough to be treated to a reading by tea-leaf reader Annie Bell. As we peered into the leaves and our eyes adjusted, figures and forms could be made out and Annie translated their meaning. I’m looking forward to the ‘pleasant surprise’ that’s in store for me – perhaps another decadent tea session at the Observatory.

At home

In Time for Tea, Lindel encourages readers to make time for enjoying tea each day, and to host their own afternoon tea parties. “Life is so fast-paced, and everything is instant,” says Lindel. “We have to slow down. Having tea is a way of relaxing and focusing and sharing.” The ritual of preparing the table, contributing a dish and using your favourite linen or tea cups that have been handed down through your family are all ways of creating a sense of occasion and enjoying quality time with your friends.  However, while afternoon tea was once the quintessence of civility, they needn’t be formal; the main point is to enjoy the simple pleasure of taking time out, and to have fun.
 

Tea etiquette

Afternoon tea is far less formal today, but some simple rules of etiquette still apply.

• Pick up your cup and saucer together, holding the saucer in one hand and the cup in the other.


• When stirring your tea, avoid making noises by touching the sides of the cup.


• Never leave your spoon in the cup, and avoid sipping tea from your spoon.


• Milk should be poured into the cup after the tea.


• Lemon slices should be neatly placed in the teacup after tea has been poured.


• Never add lemon with milk, as the citric acid will cause the milk to curdle.

Take a leaf

Many restaurants, bars and hotels around Australia are hosting traditional afternoon tea sessions. For your next special occasion, or simply for a gathering with friends, take time to enjoy a formal afternoon tea at one of these locatons.

New South Wales

• The Tearoom, Queen Victoria Building www.thetearoom.com.au


• The Victoria Room www.thevictoriaroom.com.


• The Observatory Hotel www.theobservatoryhotel.com.au.


• The Loft www.theloftsydney.com.

Victoria

• ARIA, Langham Hotel www.langhamhotelmelbourne.com.au


• The Windsor www.thewindsor.com.au 


• Woodman Estate www.woodmanestate.com

Queensland

• Highsocietea www.highsocietea.com.au


• Stamford Plaza Brasserie on the River www.stamford.com.au/spb/.

South Australia

• The Apothecary 1878 www.theapothecary1878.com.au

West Australia

• C Restaurant Lounge www.cresaurant.com.au

Tasmania

• Hadley’s Hotel www.dohertyhotels.com.au/hadleys