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Warm, sweet and slightly mysterious, the splendour of nutmeg lies not in its humble appearance, but in its complex, earthy aroma.

Fresh nutmeg has a sharp sweetness that complements savoury dishes. Pumpkin and creamy potato gratin are classic pairings. Nutmeg is also an indispensable element in dishes such as Greek spanakopita and in Indian garam masala spice blend. It’s perfect in sweets such as fruit cake, apple pie and banana bread.

Delicate desserts are better served by mace, the lacy membrane that embraces the nutmeg seed. Once grated, the oils that give nutmeg its flavour swiftly evaporate. To capture nutmeg’s intensity, buy it whole and grate as needed. Specialised nutmeg graters, with their small, very sharp holes, are far and away the best tool for the job.

Photography: Ben Dearnley. Styling: Michelle Noerianto.