Destination: Freycinet Peninsula

If you dream of pristine beaches free of people, Elizabeth Wilson recommends Tasmania’s Freycinet Peninsula and, for a perfect family retreat, follow the compass north to Jervis Bay, New South Wales.

When you think about taking a coastal holiday in Australia, I encourage you to think of Tasmania’s east coast. In this part of the world, the beaches are long, crystal clear and fringed by virgin bushland, and the atmosphere is just as nature intended it to be.

First impressions
On my most recent trip here, my husband, Jamie, and I flew into Launceston, from where we headed south along the meandering road to Freycinet National Park. You know you’re almost there when you can see the peaks of the Hazards, a collection of pink-granite cliffs, in the distance. These dramatic formations dominate the landscape, offering a magnificent backdrop to the area’s many beaches. Wherever you travel along the peninsula, they remain a dramatic presence, changing colours throughout the day, from steely grey on a misty morning, to salmon pink in the afternoon to fiery orange at sunset.

The Freycinet experience
The peninsula has a variety of accommodation options, from bed and breakfasts, such as Freycinet Waters, to more resort-style lodgings, such as Edge of the Bay. For us it was Freycinet Lodge, nestled within the National Park bushland, overlooking Great Oyster Bay and the perfect base from which to explore the peninsula.

There are a couple of ambles I’d recommend to help you get your bearings. First, take a walk along Richardson’s Beach or visit Honeymoon Bay. Both will give you an instant appreciation of just how pristine and unpopulated Tasmania can be. Second, head to Cape Tourville Lighthouse, from where boardwalk access will take you to breathtaking vistas of the rugged juts and folds of this arresting coastline. If you’re keen for bushwalking, there’s plenty on offer. The most popular walk is the track to Wineglass Bay, which, as well as being one of the world’s best beaches, it’s also one of the world’s most exclusive. And we’re not talking Riviera-style umbrellas but, rather, its exclusivity comes from the fact it takes some hard effort to get there! A ninety-minute return walk will get you to the lookout from where you’ll be rewarded with unfettered views of this achingly beautiful arc of white sand. But, if you want to feel the sand between your toes, an extra 90-minute return is needed but, again, the endeavour is well worthwhile.

Driver’s delight
To explore beyond the National Park, I recommend a day-drive north. Not far out of the park you’ll come across Freycinet Marine Farm, run by Julia and Giles Fisher, who harvest Pacific oysters, native Tasmanian Angasi oysters and blue-lip mussels. Take a tour of all the oyster beds, where you can lift an oyster from the water and sample it on the spot. We can attest that they were some of the most delicious ones we’ve ever tucked in to.

With oysters shucked and eaten, head north through the coastal town of Bicheno, keeping an eye out for its colony of penguins, and then climb inland along the Elephant Pass, where the road weaves through picturesque hilltop farming country. Along here you’ll encounter the area’s famous Mount Elephant Pancake Barn, which makes a perfect stop-off for afternoon tea, overlooking the Tasman Sea while you indulge in the sublime European-style crepe pancakes.

Take your time with a return journey via the beautiful Douglas-Apsley National Park, ensuring to call in to some of the local wineries. Freycinet Vineyard, on the Tasman Highway, Bicheno, or Coombend Estate. Another great drive from Freycinet is the quaint coastal village of Swansea, located on the other side of Great Oyster Bay. Indeed, Freycinet is a spectacular corner of the world I’m sure you’ll adore – whether you crave indulgence, activity or blissful seclusion.

 

10 things to see and do at Freycinet Peninsula:

1. Bushwalking Superb tracks, long and short.
2. Wine tasting A specialty run by Freycinet Lodge 1800 420 155.
3. Freycinet Marine Park, an oyster lover’s delight (03) 6257 0140.
4. Evening penguin tours, a must for families, www.bichenopenguintours.com.au
5. Day trips Take a drive to the gorgeous town of Swansea. 
6. Sample local fare Try a Tasmanian scallop pie from Freycinet Bakery, located on The Esplanade at Coles Bay (03) 6375 1972.
7. Scenic lookouts Make sure a visit to the Cape Tourville Lighthouse is on your list.
8. Quad bike tours See Freycinet with All4Adventures, (03) 6257 0018.
9. Kayaking and abseiling  Freycinet Adventures, www.freycinetadventures.com 
10. Scenic flights Get a higher view with Freycinet Air, www.freycinetair.com.au

Fast facts

• The Freycinet Peninsula is on Tasmania’s east coast, about two-and-a-half hours from Hobart or Launceston.
• With an average temperature of 22ºC in summer, Freycinet is wonderful for Christmas.
  A little bracing in winter, but still a beautiful time to come. 
• Christmas and Easter are the busiest periods, so expect to see lots of people.
• For more information, call Tourism Tasmania on 1300 655 145 or visit: www.discovertasmania.com.au
• For great costal places places to stay in Tasmania, visit www.puretasmania.com.au

 

For more great places to go, see what Notebook: Editor, Liz Parker, has to say about Victoria's Mornington Peninsula.

 

Photography: Sam McAdam