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The Mornington Peninsula, in the southern most point of Victoria, is, according to Liz Parker, the ideal place to soak up beautiful and diverse scenery. But if South Australia beckons, you might want to drop a line in the waters of Baird Bay.

I am happiest near the water, and I was fortunate enough to grow up with access to a family beach house where I spent many blissful childhood holidays racing from sand to surf and back without a care in the world. Even now that I’ve been an adult for longer than I care to remember, I often return to the water to regain my sense of freedom, breathing in ocean-fresh air that’s instant balm for the weary mind and body.

The southern end of the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria has become my new favourite destination for reviving seaside holidays since I moved from New Zealand to Australia last year to take on the role of editor of Notebook:. I love the diversity of its coastline. By simply driving half an hour... read on below advertisment



from Melbourne I can visit the rugged Bass Strait ocean coast, the lush wetlands in Western Port or the calm bathing beaches of Port Phillip Bay, depending on my mood.

Accommodation options are plentiful and varied – everything from charming historic cottages to upmarket resorts. I’ll happily admit to a preference for the finer things in life but, even so, the range of quality lodgings is extensive. Petit Amour Bed & Breakfast and Hilltonia Homestead tempted me before I decided on Peppers Moonah Links Resort. All three are award-winners but the latter’s on-site day spa and new luxury suites proved way too tempting to pass up.

Golf, anyone?
Ardent golfers may already be aware that Moonah Links was also the home of the 2003 and 2005 Australian Open. Alas, sport is not my forte – the last time I was on a golf course my job was to drive the cart and admire the prowess of my two male companions. But I got carried away with the scenery and managed to lose control of the vehicle, going down a grass embankment slippery with overnight rain. It was a long way to the 19th hole with grass and mud-splattered clothes and hair!

I wasn’t aware until my recent visit that the Mornington Peninsula is blessed with some of the world’s best golfing courses, designed by some of the biggest names in the business (including Greg Norman, Robert Trent Jones Jnr and Peter Thomson). There are 18 courses to choose from, however, I might be wise to avoid Cape Schanck Resort and the Flinders Golf Club – I’ve been told the courses themselves are extraordinarily good but that the views are also extraordinarily distracting, and I don’t want to tempt fate!

Gourmet discoveries
What I don’t mind being distracted by is good food and wine, and both do very well here. Just drive along the region’s coastlines and cruise its quiet country roads, and the peninsula’s love affair with wine and fresh produce quickly becomes obvious.

Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot gris are hot in the Mornington right now. I tend to drink the latter two, so was easily persuaded to buy several bottles at Red Hill Estate and Stonier Wines. And you simply must visit Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove in the Red Hill South area. This family-run business combines local produce with its own high-ranking wines to create an exquisite dining experience. Add a dash of art appreciation to the mix in the form of an intriguing sculpture garden and it’s not surprising that Montalto was named 2006 Best Winery Destination for Victoria. The rosellas that flock to wife Wendy Mitchell’s garden certainly seem to like the place; the colourful characters are forever raiding her sunflower seeds, beans and even her kalamata olives.

On the other side of the peninsula in Sorrento, fellow olive grower Greg O’Donoghue runs Green Olive, a brisk business of gourmet foods, wines and kitchen gadgets. I recommend taking a stroll down the main street to explore the fashion shops, gift shops and galleries. Marlene Miller’s fabulous antique shop is truly fascinating. Or if it’s more gourmet food you’re after drive north along the foreshore to the town of Rosebud. There at the Tasting Station you can sample creamy Red Hill cheeses, dip a spoon into delicious local Cazans or Elfreds jams and conserves or sip daintily on a cup of Sue’s Brew organic tea.

Gone walkabout
While I adore good food and wine, my waistline does not. Fortunately, the opportunities to burn at least some of those calories consumed while on the peninsula are endless. Braver souls can join the lycra set and cycle the network of on- and off-road paths, gallop on horseback down Gunnamatta Beach, sea kayak, swim with the dolphins or scuba dive with the sea dragons of Port Phillip Bay. But walking is my great love and the peninsula has much to offer, including a boardwalk that straddles some of the world’s most significant wetlands. With the sea breeze in your face, endless ocean views and abundant birdlife to keep you company, walking here is a delight.

Start with the easy stroll along Shelley Beach (watch for the sign on the right driving into Portsea from Sorrento). Beneath the magnificent clifftop mansions, candy-coloured boat boxes cluster and private jetties jut out into the crystal-clear azure water – idyllic! Next try the Point Nepean Walk at the very tip of the Mornington Peninsula at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay from Bass Strait. The 7km walk starts from Gunners carpark and explores the network of tunnels, lookouts and forts that guarded Melbourne from enemies since the 1880s through to World War II. The wild beauty of its beaches was brought to world attention in 1967 when Prime Minister Harold Holt took his last swim at Cheviot Beach. It’s fascinating and sobering stuff.

If you really want a challenge, the coastal trail from Portsea to Cape Schanck and the Two Bays Walk both stretch for more than 25km. I didn’t do either of these, but still decided to reward myself with a massage and a soak at Peninsula Hot Springs, Victoria’s first thermal bathing facility. Massage is my answer to everything, so I’m something of a connoisseur. And I’m pleased to report that the Springs passed with flying colours.

As I luxuriated shoulder deep in the 38°C pool, it was all I could do to keep my head above the surface. As I said before, I’m happiest near the water and this was positively the nearest I could get.

Fast facts

• The start of the Mornington Peninsula is about a 30-minute drive from Melbourne.


• The best time to visit is during summer after the Christmas holiday period, when it’s neither too hot nor too crowded.


• The peninsula takes in 25,000 hectares of national parks that are perfect for both short and extended bush walks.


• There are more than 50 cellar doors in the area, so plan to  fit in some wine tasting.


• For more information, call 1800 804 009 or visit: www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org

Top 3 places to stay

• Peppers Moonah Links Resort: www.peppers.com.au


• Petit Amour Bed & Breakfast: www.petitamour.com.au


• Hilltonia Homestead: www.hilltonia.com.au

10 things to see and do at the Mornington Peninsula:

1. The Briars Park 1840s historical homestead (03) 5974 3686.


2. Heronswood An 1871 mansion (03) 5987 1877. A gardener’s delight.


3. Peninsula Hot Springs Natural mineral springs (03) 5950 8777.


4. Point Nepean National Park Walks with tunnels and forts.


5. Boneo Maze & Wetlands Centre Hedge mazes, lawn chess, waterways and more (03) 5988 6385.


6. Cape Schanck Lightstation Take a tour of the lighthouse 0500 527 891.


7. Tyabb Packing House Antiques Australia’s largest complex of antiques and old wares
   (03) 5977 4414.


8. Arthurs Seat State Park Extraordinary ocean views (03) 5987 2565 (chairlift). 


9.  Moonlit Sanctuary Hands-on encounters with wildlife (03) 5978 7935.


10. T’Gallant Winemakers Great wine and fine dining.

For more great places to go, see what Australian Country Style Editor, Elizabeth Wilson, has to say about  Tasmania's Freycinet Peninsula.

Photography: Sam McAdam